Quilted Jacket Progress

by Stephanie on November 9, 2011

in Quilted Clothing

quilted fabric pieces for jacket

I’m finally at the stage of sewing up the quilted pieces for my Mom’s jacket. I’ve taken my time piecing and quilting separate blocks of fabric, with frequent sanity/color breaks to work on anything that is not blue-brown-beige. The jacket pattern (McCall’s 5162) is hideous, and was chosen purely for simplicity of shape. My version is 2-3″ shorter, has a straight hem (shirt-tail hem on a jacket? eeeesh!), and, at customer request, no pockets or sleeve cuffs, or even buttons, although I might use one at center top if I can find a good one.

My original idea was to do some kind of in-the-ditch quilting to highlight the beige star shapes, but that seemed like a lot of work. So I decided a nice, easy (quick!) meander would add a welcome organic element to all the straight lines of the piecing. When the quilting was all done, I trimmed the batting and backing even with the edges, zigzag stitched all the way around each piece, and ran them through the wash to pre-shrink.

The pieces shrank a lot. The batting is 80/20, a bulk purchase with no packaging, but the package for some other 80/20 on hand said to expect 2% shrinkage. I’d have made these with more wiggle room if I’d had any extra fabric, but I didn’t, and it shrank a lot more than 2%. Had a few tense moments fitting the pattern pieces on (I cut apart the muslin along the seams to use as a pattern — be sure to add seam allowance back on if you do this!).

Here’s a piece that became a sleeve. You can see it’s a squeaker:

To cut the piece to size I lay the muslin pattern on the back (checking it was centered and straight on the pieced design), and marked a generous 1/4″ around the outside for a seamline, except for the cuff edge, which will be trimmed and finished with binding.

Next step was to zigzag-reinforce that line and cut off all the extra bits around the edge. Repeat, repeat, repeat… and here all all the jacket pieces ready to go. Two sleeves (sorry for the awful pics: it was late afternoon on a rainy day and these are best of a crappy bunch).

pieced sleeve pieces for quilted jacket

You can sort of make out the fussy-cut little birds placed in prominent positions. I was careful to meander around each bird, not across it, while quilting. Here are the two front pieces:

pieced fronts for quilted jacket

And the back and mandarin collar:

pieced back for quilted jacket

Since snapping these pics I’ve got the jacket “shell” mostly assembled (sewing the garment seams is the easy part!). More pics to come when it’s done, and then I’ll tackle the lining. My goal is to cross this project off the WIP list by Thanksgiving, and it’s looking doable…



1 Dan November 9, 2011 at 4:15 pm

Hurray for progress! Three cheers for simplification! I am surprisingly attracted to this type of garment. Guilty pleasure almost.

2 Miki November 9, 2011 at 4:20 pm

This is looking great. Good reminder about shrinkage. I have a jacket pattern I am thinking about trying, so I will be mindful of that.

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